I couldn’t spend a week staying on “the Camino” without walking some of it. So, last week, I set off to walk from Arthur’s gallery, which is just beyond Triacastela (if you turn right there, rather than left to Samos) and about 130km from the finish in Santiago de Compostela. My goal was to get to Sarria, where I would be picked up late in the afternoon, but I reached there at 11:30am. So I carried on…
One of the big attractions of the Camino is that there are signposts at least every 500m (I’m told) and usually at any junction, so you don’t need to carry a map or be very good at navigation. Also, I realised afterwards, there are no gates to open, or stiles to climb over, (on my section anyway), which makes for a slightly smoother journey. Many people don’t even book their accommodation ahead, so that they are free to stop, or carry on, as the fancy takes them. Though this does mean that there is a tendency for quite a few people to set off at the crack of dawn (which must be delightful for other guests or walkers staying in the same albergue or hostel – not to mention people trying to sleep below a gallery on the Camino).
Clearly there are other advantages too, like it’s a good walk with some nice scenery and you will get to meet, or pass, looooaaaads of people. But that, for me, even though I consider myself a very sociable person, puts me off doing the whole thing. (I also get quite competitive, as nobody walks passed me!) There’s quite a lot of road, or next to road, sections too, though they are often fairly quiet back roads.
For info also, I noticed quite a lot of cyclists taking on the route and I saw some specific signs in the road, so there must be a cyclist’s variation. This must get you from A to B somewhat quicker but, then, you may miss a lot (of the point) of the journey. In addition there are a few alternative routes to Santiago de Compostela, like one along the north coast of Spain and another up through Portugal, which you might like to consider to be a little ‘different’.
Anyway, I managed another 8km (5 miles) beyond Sarria before I turned back, covering the same ground, which made my walk about 30km (18 miles) in total. Though I have to say, just in case you have a mind to do it in reverse, it’s not as easy to navigate as you might think – given that the signs are geared towards pilgrims on the normal route. (And I think you will be fed up of saying “Ola” or “Buen Camino” to thousands of people).
I am desp to do this but yeah the thought of having to grapple for a bed or a lonely beautiful path puts me off.
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I spoke to one group of people who were only doing the last section from Ponferrada. I’m not sure how far that is but they were aiming for 8 days – which I think is a sensible length of time. I also suspect rooms are plentiful in some places (like Sarria) but difficult to get hold of in others. If you’re committed to doing each leg (of maybe 15 to 20km per day) then I’d pre-book accommodation, then you can relax and take your time. I wouldn’t say it’s very hilly and much of my section was flat.
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wow. Beautiful flora and fauna and old sites! Also, it’s now o’clock!
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I think the inference of the clock was that the time is NOW… At least that was my take on it and meaning (I think) that you should enjoy and live your life while you can – now (and not put things off until tomorrow, or next week, or whatever….) It was outside a hippy commune, so that maybe helps to explain. I have to say though, that I have seen better scenery – though I am a little spoilt! How was Cornwall, the south coast & Brighton etc. ?
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No, I think you’re right. It’s about learning to stay in the now, versus worrying about what time is ahead or passed. It’s not a bad idea, but terrible when trying to schedule with someone 🙂
As for my travels, you just can’t wait, can you? 😉 Cornwall, especially the north coast, was everything we’d hoped it would be. We never made it to the south coast or Brighton, because we decided to spend an extra night in Cambridge. I think that was a good decision. And I can imagine you’re spoiled by the beauty in Scotland, England and Switzerland! Still, those were some pretty sights.
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I’m glad you all enjoyed Cornwall. It’s always best to discover places for yourself rather than be told where to go. Everyone has their own preferences. 😊 I’m heading to Northumberland on Sunday to do 4 days of the Inn Way with my friends, so watch out for that when I get back.
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Looking forward to it!
And yes, it is great to discover places for oneself, but advice certainly helps! we found Tintagel and Boscastle, as both were recommended by our B&B hosts. I hope to have some time Wednesday or next week to start recapping!
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I’ll look forward to hearing how it went. 😊
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I would love to have permission to use a couple of your photos for an article I am writing on the Camino for a not-for-profit magazine
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Hello. I would be absolutely delighted and honoured for you to use my photos. Thank you for asking. I can send you the originals if you can send me the titles of the pictures you would like to use and your email address of course. My email address is mikehawtree@hotmail.com .
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